One common question amongst beginning surfers is whether it is possible to catch waves in shallow water close to shore. While deep ocean barrels are iconic, the answer is that you certainly can surf in shallow conditions – it just requires adapting your techniques for the lower water depth.
Shallow Water Wave Behavior
In shallows, waves slow down and break more abruptly due to touching the sea floor. They tend to break closer to shore in a whitewash rather than barrelling. It reduces wave face size and power.
Factors Affecting Break Point
Wave behavior depends on seabed factors like sandbanks, reefs and gradients. Small tide fluctuations hugely impact shorebreak locations.
Board Selection for Shallows
Lighter shortboards 7’6″ or under work best for paddling into plumping shorebreak. Thick shortboards prevent nose-diving in shallow flats.
Longer noseriding designs draft too deep, risking boards repeatedly bottoming out in chest-deep conditions.
Shallow Water Wave Position
Take off further outside breakline on shoulders where waves have room to build speed before breaking. Paddle hard to catch waves before they collapse.
Beware Whitewash Zone
Very close to shore waves break all at once. Avoid getting barrelled or held under in the impact zone.
Shallow Water Popping Up
Time pop-ups earlier while still on the flats to avoid